The smartest way to think about a new season of fashion trends is to start with a review the last year in culture. Last year was painted pink—Barbie, the Eras tour, and girlhood turned out to be players of a team far greater than the sum of its parts. We also saw critical conversations about microtrends and “cores” reach a cultural mass even outside of fashion circles. The Shein discussion has been going in circles for years, and it only seems to have strengthened with the convergence of a discussion on actually meaningful outfitting. Clothing has always been as serious as it has been fun, as political as it is expressive, and those things seem to be felt now more than ever. At the end of the day, people have caught onto the fact that a trend is not a trend just because someone on the FYP has said so.
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That said, what are people—designers and dressers alike—excited about? Spring/Summer 2024 runways painted a pretty strong picture. Last summer, there was shift from streetwear’s mainstream reign into both West Coast skate and East Coast sport. It was certainly further supported by Bottoms and the popularization of sapphic fashion and the rugby polo. Additionally, it took a moment for club fashion to regroup after the pandemic and the slick buns, but fashion is taking a turn for the dirty.
A lot of the big trends, it seems, are spilling in from early adopters last summer. Fringe is everywhere. So are sheer fabrics. Fashion girls were wearing boxers and bloomers as outside shorts last summer, and that appears to be around again. It also appears the “Y2K aesthetic” that began initially as something of nostalgic costuming, dressing as high camp pop stars and recreating looks from pastiche film and television, has turned into a genuine and true revival and retelling of the decade’s streetwear, sportswear, and party wear.
Not Quite Naked
There’s no delicate way to say this: We’re showing skin. Not quite naked, but just about. Sheer dresses, skirts, and nylon stockings are so prolific in the Spring/Summer 2024 shows. It’s a moving train that won’t stop. From the dirty futuristic club fantasy of the Alexander Wang to Margiela’s couture elegant dollhouse show of sheer gowns and pretend pubic hair, the sheer trend can be employed to express sex appeal and elegance alike. If fashion reflects the world around us, the word “slu*t” has not only been reclaimed, it’s become a word of endearment.
Sanctuary Mesh Cover-Up Dress
A bathing suit cover-up worn as a dress needs to be the new norm.
Staud Misty Dress
As soon as you fall in love with the LBD in your closet, a new one pops up and consumes us.
Frankies Bikinis Dylan Lace Mini Skirt
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A mini skirt that dares to show more. Thank god.
On the Fringes
Remember when feathers bordered every sleeve and hemline? Well, they’ve officially been replaced by tassels and fringe. Tassel trim is traditionally neutral-toned, which makes it a great option for wardrobe minimalists and a wide range of designers. Brands like Bevza (known for elevated neutrals) to Bronx and Banco, a partygoer’s go-to, embraced long fringe.
In an exclusive interview with Bronx and Banco designer, Natalie De’Banco, I got an inside scoop regarding the shift from the luxe night-life aesthetics we saw in her Fall/Winter ’22 collection to the earth-toned glam we saw for Spring/Summer ’23, “Since our resort collection was super bright and colorful, we are keeping the palette neutral and calming with blacks and beiges. That said, there won’t be a lack of color. We are using splashes of electric peach, lipstick coral and neon lime to add excitement to the collection.”
The textured tassel trim will be the ultimate party trick come spring 2024, but there’s no reason why you need to wait to wear the trend. Tassels and fringe look incredible when incorporated with a neutral sweater, hanging from suede boots, and on the back of a heavy leather or suede jacket.
3D Floral Fringe Tank
Fringed crop-tops might be everywhere this summer.
Lisa Yang Jae Cashmere Sweater Top
This fringe-seamed sweater reimagines the wardrobe basic.
Missoni Pareo
No one does a fiber-focused textile like Missoni, here’s proof.
The Peplum
The writing has been on the wall with this one. There has been warning, and there has been resistance, but the time has come for the return of the peplum. Margiela’s most recent couture show embraced a juicy, exaggerated hip. Jacquemus managed to send a sleek black maxi down the runway in September, with a leather construction protruding at the waist.
SHUSHU/TONG Lace-Insert Wool-Blend Satin Gown
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The queen Alexa Chung posted a version of this SHUSHU/Tong dress on her Instagram.
Ulla Johnson Edda Top
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A mixed textile take on the return of the peplum.
JW Anderson Peplum Bustier Top
This sleek peplum top would pair well with anything.
Rosettes
I hope you’re not tired of the rosette trend yet, because it’s not going anywhere. Rosettes are perhaps the most delicate trend to dominate the summer fashion sphere. Whether you’re shopping for a hair accessory, bridal look, going-out top, or pair of shoes, there’s a good chance you can find what you’re looking for with a rosette attached. Blumarine can be credited for bringing the vintage trend back last year, and since then, brands like Sandy Liang and Mirro Palais have hopped on board.
Many celebrities love the rosette trend too. Most notably, Harry Styles wore a giant version of the trend to the 2023 Brit Awards, and Zendaya basically wore an entire rose garden to the 2023 SAG Awards. This trend works for any occasion and is easy to incorporate with a variety of fashion aesthetics. If you haven’t tried it yet, what are you waiting for?
Aje Gazer Rosette Mini Dress
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How to elegantly be the best dressed guest at a summer wedding.
Le Superbe Kaia Botanica Sequin Dress
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Rosettes are back, and so is high glamour.
Endless Rose Organza Flower Top
This rosette top can be worn at the club, at the beach, and everywhere in between.
Girlhood Revisited
We haven’t quite graduated out of our fascination with girlhood, and perhaps we never will. But if last year was about healing our inner children, this year, that inner child will be sneaking out of the house and stealing the keys to the Honda Civic on the way out.
Fashion communities on social media may be at their wit’s end when it comes to ribbons and bows, but designers have kept them on the starting lineup yet again.
But there are always evolutions. Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture show by Simone Rocha shows a lot of this as well—smooth satin meets hard edges. Area’s Spring 2024 show was packed with ruffles, flowers, and baby pink. Marc Jacobs showed a series of attitude-stricken velour tracksuits with exaggerated briefs in place of bottoms and bejeweled teddy bears on the hip.
ALOHAS Rosalind Ballet Flats
The best part about the ballet flat is how actually diverse they can be. These ALOHAS flirt with a line between sensible and elegant.
Loeffler Randall Violet Bow Crossbody Bag
This bow bag is, unfortunately, a NEED.
Kimchi Blue Arabella Lace-Trim Mini Skirt
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It’s giving good girl faith in a tight little skirt.
Underwear on Top
There’s something both relaxed and extremely doll-like about underwear. Dolls have emerged all over pop culture, Barbie being the obvious, but then there is also the Marc Jacobs show earlier this month featuring plastic-perfect models in doll-like hair, makeup and poses. This feels in line with the exposed petticoats of gowns from Molly Goddard and Mirror Palais. This, to me, shares threads with fans bedazzling their own bodysuits for the Eras Tour, the rise of frilly bloomers, and coquette fashion.
Comme Si La Boxer Clasica
Personally, I am the biggest fan of wearing underwear as clothes. Boxers are the best summer shorts.
By Anthropologie Jacquard Bloomer Shorts
These bloomers are begging to be styled with your best sandals and linen shirts.
By Anthropologie Pintuck Lace Shorts
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From the people who brought you the Boyfriend jean and then the Boyfriend shirt, this is the Boyfriend boxer.
Prep School Dropout
Last summer, we saw a rise in country club sport uniforms and rugby polos, tennis skirts and bracelets alike. This year, kitten heels are everywhere, as are knits tied around shoulders. A lot of this feels congruent with things like tailored dresses and sheer tights, as seen styled preppy at Marc Jacobs or the relaxed tailoring of the pastiche prep world of Simone Rocha.
Retro Stripe Tube Socks
A personal trick of mine to add prep to your already existing wardrobe is a tube sock.
House Of Sunny Free Falling Faux Leather Varsity Jacket
Be it a bomber or a varsity jacket, a cropped, drapey jacket is a classic.
Clare V. Varsity Sweater
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Applying to whatever school has these colors. You get it.
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